Here comes some very short and rather unstructed thoughts on Zoologist Rhinoceros, launched in 2014. The nose behind the fragrance is Paul Kiler and the fragrance is of course inspired by the massive, majestic Rhinoceros. Sidenote: when I think about Rhinos, one of the first images that comes to mind is Lord Rataxex from the french childrens book Babar. I used to watch the animated cartoon on tv when I was a child. Oh, what little did I know of Rhinoceros, or, perfume for that matter. 
At first whiff, I smell a concoction (but a very interesting one!) of notes that reminds me of the following ones: oud, leather, tobacco, something minty/menthol, woods, vetiver, patchouli. I realise when reading the actual notes, that the patchouli must be the vetiver, and the "menthol" might be the pine. The opening is kind of rough and in your face (but in a pleasant way) and what comes after are indeed softer, and maybe more wearable for those who are a bit afraid of loud and slightly animalic scents. My overall impression is good, but I kind of which that the oud would be a little bit more present throughout the whole composition. As of now, I only smell the oud in the first part of the fragrance - the base gets way more soft, with a herbal undertone. However, it definitely makes me think of animals, big and heavy, dirty animals. But that might just me because I already know I'm smelling something called Rhinoceros.

I really like the concept of Zoologist scents and I have sampled some of them, and cannot wait to sample them all! The scents are all interesting, and I love that they are inspired and named after different animals. Also can't resist those 18th or 19th century style illustrations on the bottles! 

 
Zoologist Rhinoceros opens up more potent, animalic and dirty than the rest of the story. I like the smell that makes me think of covering myself with dirt and mud, and then go to snooze for some hours under a bush. Maybe having some sweaty leathery sex in the afternoon sun on the dry savannah woodlands. Maybe eating some fresh green grass afterwards, to fresh myself up (don't know much of the life of a Rhino, that is just part of how I imaging them living). Hah, why not. 
 
Zoologist Rhinoceros contains:
 
Top Notes: Rum, Bergamot, Lavender, Elemi, Sage, Armoise, Conifer Needles

Middle Notes: Pinewood, Tobacco, Immortelle, Geranium, Agarwood, Chinese Cedar Wood

Base Notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Amber, Smoke, Leather, Musks

 

 
Have you ever experienced the feeling of almost being offended when smelling a perfume? I have not experienced it many times, but it has happend. It is known. The last time it happend was when I tried on a scent from a big fashion designer, that has previously launched a few really famous classical perfumes like Opium, Rive Gauche and Paris. When trying on a new launch from a fashion designer with that kind of prestigious perfumes on its CV, one tend to be a little bit optimistic. Sadly, more often than not it seems, the high(-ish) expectations fall flat. 
 Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris was launced in 2016 is officially being described as Chypré-Fruity (at Fragrantica). The noses behind the perfume is Olivier Cresp, Harry Fremont and Dora Baghriche. I've only tried it on two times, one time at my skin and the other on a paper stick. To be fair... 
My thoughs on Mon Paris might be a little bit affected by this fact, so bear that in mind. 
  
When first spritzing on Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris on my skin, a tiny tiny bit of tartness is entering my nose. To bad it doesn't stay that long, it is a top note after all, because what comes after that is just...a total bore. What bores me is the total lack of surprise and ability to present something new to my nose. It is generic, just like every other department store fragrances nowaday. Fruity, oversweet, a very clean patchouli that is too afraid to be noticed, and some berries on top. What my nose detect in Mon Paris is especially strawberries and raspberries. It is not the "natural raspberry bush" that you can smell while passing by in the middle of the summer, nor is it the freshly picked delicious strawberries, that you can eat as they are or with whipped cream. No, the berries in this fragrance are more like an artificlal flavoured slushie -you know that bright neon colored drink, made of syrups and ice. The scent of berries in Mon Paris also reminds me of dried candied strawberries, (the ones that are supposed to be the more "healthy alternative" to candy but contains the same amount of sugar as  any other candy) or perhaps berry marmalade. 
In the end, when the overly sweet berry notes are finally starting to fade, all I can smell on my skin is a slightly pleasant scent of sweetness and mild musk. Nothing more. 
I do understand that when a big fashion brand makes and sells perfume, as well as other products, you do want your products to actually be sold - thus, knowing what the customer likes and maybe even adjusting the products to them, might be a clever business idea. What was likeable in the 70's or 90's or even 00's, might not be what is likeable today, by most people. When it comes to perfume, bold, heavy, heady florals and aldehydes from the 80's is not what is selling well today at most perfume counters. Most people seem to be reaching for clean, fresh scents (CLEAN, I'm looking at you) or fruitchoulis or fruity florals. However, to expect something more, something that stands out a at least a little bit from such a previously bold brand like Yves Saint Laurent, is it too much to ask for? I think no. Still we're being served this generic fruit soda fragrance.
To its defense, I do have to say that the bottle of Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris is gorgeous. It is so little and cute and perfectly shaped with that little bow on it. It screams "hold me, spritz me, own me!". Can't complain there. 
 
I don't want to be snobbish and I believe I am not really. It is just, one tends to get disappointed when a scent is just flat boring, or so it is to me at least. I can imagine a 16 year old girl who previously used Victoria's Secrets body mists, that wants to step up her game with an eau de parfum, reaching for Mon Paris. It is nothing wrong at all with wanting to smell sweet or fruity or whatever, and neither is it wrong to like scents like Mon Paris. It is just not for me, but you do you. However, if I could recommend a few other scents that I believe are in the same genre as Mon Paris (but in my opinion, better), I would suggest Lancôme Tresor Midnight Rose, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle or Giorgio Armani Sì (as a matter of fact, the latter really smells a bit like how Mon Paris smells like on my paper stick). If you want it sweeter, then go for Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium - I guess any of the flankers would do.
 
Official notes for Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris

Top Notes: Strawberry, Raspberry, Calone, Pear, Calabrian Bergamott, Tangerine, Orange
Middle Notes: Chinese Jasmine, Jasmine Sambac, Orange Blossom, Peony, Datura
Base Notes: Cedar, Vanilla, Moss, Patchouli, Ambroxan, Musk. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Versace pour femme (discountinued but still available in some shops) is the floral, loud and sunny scent for those absolutely lazy and carefree summer days when you have zero obligations whatsoever, when you just wants to hang around somewhere, maybe in a park or at a sun-drenched terrace, doing nothing except enjoying. I would love to have those days more often then I do, but at the moment that is not how life is. But, doesn't matter, I have my precious Versace! 
 Versace pour femme was launched in 2007 and is in fact called simply Versace. I discovered it back in 2011 and has worn it ever since - I guess this gem is as close as getting to a signature fragrance as I get, I simply love it and to my nose is it just divine, ripe fruits, florals, lilacs (favorite) and softest musk. 
Shall we go further? Yes!
 
When spritzing Versace on the skin, the first thing I notice is a loud fruityness, sweet and juicy with a hint of florals. Pretty soon I detect the smell of guavas and in this composition, they are almost overripe, like a basket of fruits that has been left out on the veranda and gone over a day. Weirdly, I don't really mind that mild feeling of "over ripeness" (maybe it's just my näsa), I think it just adds some character to the scent (it doesn't have to be perfect). The overripe fruityness recalls an inner image of lighthearthedness and happiness as a person, all dressed in bright yellow and sipping drinks made of sunshine and guava on a hot July afternoon.  
 The feeling of wearing Versace, embodied by Brigitte Bardot 
 
When the fruity notes are starting to take a step back, the lilacs are taking a step forward. Oh, and what lilacs then! The scent of them are carried to you by a light wind and it is like sitting near a lilac bush in bloom, just close enough to be surrounded by their softness and sweetness, without being smoothered by their nectar (not that I would mind a lot I fear, I love lilacs). The tiny light purple flower in this composition is not cloying, and not overly sweet but more like the perfect amount of them mixed with soft musk and something cotton-ish. A pretty soft, clean and even innocent kind of lilac. I cannot really say that I smell the jasmine in the heart of the perfume (although, the warm sunny characters bears some resemblance to Elie Saab Le Parfum), nor any other flowers - that is, I can't really pick out the notes but would just say that the lilac is truly the heart of the compositon, with other florals acting as well behaved backup. 
At the end, what you have left on your skin (after at least 7-8 hours+ though) is a soft musky floral scent. It opens up loud and fruity, goes to a bit innocent lilacs + other sunheated flowers, without ever losing character or personality (with that said, it never gets boring and has a sillage that shows).
 
Over and out, Versace is truly a favorite of mine and I usually don't even go for fruity perfumes, they tend to be erhm...too fruity, too much like fruit soda or juice, which is great to drink, but not how I want to smell like. Since Versace has a floral heart and the guava doesn't take over (not for too long anyway), this perfume is easily one of my most perfect scent. It is a feminine, unapologetic, confident scent that works at so many occasions. It is even office friendly but be careful to not spritz too much since it has a pretty loud sillage. Finalemente, it has given me more compliments than any other perfumes in my collection, it is a f*cking star!
 
Top notes: Guava, Black Currant, Wisteria, Lilac, Dew Drop
Middle notes: Orchid, Lotus, Jasmine
Base notes: Bourbon Vetiver, Musk, Atlas Cedar, Cashmere Wood